A drive through Bosnia

Bosnia isn't a hot tourist destination - its not hard to see why.

It has only been 10 short years since the war there ended and the memory of the world's largest genocide since World World 2 isn't soon to be forgotten. With Karadzic's trial starting for war crimes any time now - why would anyone consider going to Bosnia? At the very least it'd be dangerous.

These were the kind of comments I received when I decided to go with a group of friends on a road trip around Bosnia. It sounds random but not so in my life! In my life I have Bosnian friends and had been hearing about the history of Bosnia for some years - the more i heard, the more I wanted to visit this country.

One thing was very clear as soon as we entered Bosnia - this was quite possibly one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited. The scenery was truly astounding and for all those who like their holidays to come with a huge chunk of nature - this is for you!

The Bosnians clearly care deeply for their country and keep it clean and accessible to all. In fact out of all the countries I have seen and explored, Bosnia has to be the cleanest out of the lot! And I include England - the country in which I live!

One of the best things about Bosnia is that the people are incredibly friendly, which can be unexpected as you'd imagine they'd still be justifiably wary of strangers. Not so - they open their hearts and their homes and welcome you to have the best time possible in their country. It is normal in Bosnia for everyone to greet one another with smiles and a Salam for a greeting - this is evident in the villages as well as the cities - and lends itself to making the atmosphere very welcoming and relaxed.

There is much to see in Bosnia and the tourists that do go there tend to be from neighbouring European states, or from the Orient.

Obviously, many want to see the evidence of war and remember what happened - and the Bosnians preserve much of this history as they work hard to learn the lessons the massacres taught them.

Sarajevo is an old city and a must visit for any eager traveller, history buff or architecture enthusiast. A beautiful old city, lovingly preserved with much diversity in evidence. The city owes much to its rich and diverse history of Islam, Catholicism and Judiasm and the architecture reflects this; with stunning mosques, beautiful cathedrals and Turkish-influenced synagogue.

The city itself is vibrant and a major centre of culture in Bosnia - the feel of the city, especially in the evenings, is very fresh and hip. With people strolling through the streets, sitting in cafes and generally having a good time.

Sights to see in Sarajevo are many as it is full of museums, historic buildings and wonderful little hideaways.

I would recommend a visit to the King Fahd Mosque as it is newly built with millions of dollars donated by Saudi Arabia and is widely attended by many Bosnians in the city. Not only that but on Fridays the mosque has a market right infront selling local crafts and the stall owners are usually very friendly and will often have a good chat. The mosque is also next to some high rises that still show the scars of war as they are severely pitted with bullet holes - I found that juxtaposition of the old scars with the new very typical of the Bonian philosophy of "get on with it"!

The Tunnel Of Hope is also a must visit while in Sarajevo. The tunnel connected Sarajevo, then a city under seige and being massacred, with the outside world and free Bosnia. It was the only hope of the ordinary Bosnian to escape from the city and the only was to get essential food and medical supplies into the city.

The story of the tunnel is a sad and yet hopeful one and its message is eternal. At the tunnel, which comes out on one side of Sarajevo airport under the house of the family who helped build it in the war, there is much to see, such as a short video on how the tunnel was used and built, old war equipment, a large guest book, pictures and a portion of the tunnel itself.

Must sees in Sarajevo also include: the old Turkish fort on top of the mountain outside Sarajevo which offers a fantastic view out over the city and is especially stunning to see it at night; the grave of Ali Izzat Begovich, the founder of Bosnia; Sarajevo Museum, and of course the Bascarsija!

The Bascarsija is the Old City. Quaint, stunning in its architecture and good shopping spot!! Sarajevo‘s old town, consists of the pretty Bascarsija square focusing on the sebilj or fountain. Around it, some forty small carsija (streets), each named after the specific craft that was practiced in them. Saraci, the main street linking to Ferhadija is where the leatherworkers resided, and tiny Kazandziluk still houses mainly shops with hand-made copper products; fantastic! Bascarsija houses Sarajevo‘s main Ottoman-era sights, most of which can be seen on a leisurely stroll of an hour. Bezistan Saraci. If you have been to Istanbul‘s bazaar complex, you‘ll recognize the spacious Ottoman architecture of this beautiful y restored covered market that was built by Gazi Husrev-beg in 1555.The Gazi Husrev-beg hamam (Turkish bath) dates from 1539 and is a must visit as is the little Masjid with the same name.

There is much to see apart from Sarejevo - though take a few days to explore that city fully!!

I would recommend a day spent exploring Jajce (which I still pronounce differently everytime I say it!) with its beautiful waterfall where the Pliva River meets the river Vrbas. Truly stunning! Jajce also lies near Pliva lake and the rivers Pliva and Vrbas actually flow through the city. Jajce has a rich history and many remains of old times like the St Luke church and the fortress. Jajce was always known for its rich history but it was in the year 2006 that the city was first nominated to be listed as a UNESCO heritage site. Jajce is situated in the mountains, there is a beautiful countryside near the city, which is also a popular destination for the local people and tourists.

Travnik has a strong culture, mostly dating back to its time as the center of local government in the Ottoman Empire. Travnik has a popular old town district; numerous mosques and croation catholic churches exist in the region, as do tombs of important historical figures and excellent examples of Ottoman architecture. The city museum, built in 1950, is one of the more impressive cultural institutions in the region. Travnik became famous by important persons who were born or lived in Travnik.

What I liked about Travnik most, honestly, was the fish restaraunt. Freshly caught trout, freshly grilled and served hot. Eat it at night, next to an old mill, under a willow tree, with a river bubbling past - contentment!!

A beautiful town set in a beautiful location - just an amazing place to go for some hikes through the mountains or swimming in lakes or rivers. Totally natural and stunning.

We went there to white water raft!

The River Neretva has its source in the Alps and travels through the mountain ranges through gorges and canyons. Ultimately the river extends to a wide valley forming a lake at Jablnanica. The waters of the river are a truly fascinating and unbelievable blue-green colour and the river itself is suited to rafting by people of a range of experience. The river itself alternates betweens rapids and quiet waters all along its course and therefore we were able to make the most of our rafting experience and get the best of both worlds. The river is at its peak from April till about June and therefore for the wildest rafting ride - that would be the time to go!

Our group really didn't have time to explore the wider area here - though it looked stunning. However we did spend some time at the famous and outrageously beautiful Kravica waterfalls. These stunning waterfalls run over 100metres long and drop an impressive 25 metres. Kravica is an ideal place for a picnic or a swim and is one of the most picturesque places in Bosnia.

This town, beside which runs a beautiful river, is famous for its old Turkish Fortress which is stunningly located at the top of a huge hill - beware, lots of steps!!

Unfortunately and horrifically most of the population of this town were either killed in the war or moved to concentration camps in one of the world's worst examples of ethnically cleansing. However the people carry on and preserve this example of beautiful Turkish architecture and the food isn't bad either! There is also a beautiful Turkish mosque that can be visited.

The city is pretty and is the home of the famous Mostar Bridge which was famously destroyed in the war. It has now been rebuilt and is well worth a visit. This city escaped damage that was inflicted on many other cities in Bosnia through the heroic actions of its citizens and the difference can be seen clearly. It is far more touristy than anywhere else is Bosnia and there is a lot of opportunity to shop in the local markets.

So, all is all - Bosnia is well worth a visit, especially while it is still an unspoilt natural paradise and I fully recommend a visit and will head back there myself soon!